Thanks, ordered an Odyssey h7 from fcpeuro because lifetime warranty. Funny. I charged mine and it was good and then next morning dead again... getting colder now. 2018 v6 sel . About time I guess but funny your post was not even a week ago.

I could see inside the OEM battery how one cell could be topped off with distilled but it's old and it was maybe 1/8th to low if not 1/16th. Maybe a pinky finger from max. Agm time instead of lead acid

 

I'm looking for the recoding on the battery now. Have you tested with a multimeter before and after recoding? I'm curious on the voltage (amps a tad more difficulty to test unless you have the tools) that the battery is at while running. I don't want it to be overcharging or under. Since this is H7 does anything need done differently when recording it? I have a vagcom . Thanks .

 

I ordered an Odyssey h7 from fcpeuro, it fit but I had to wiggle the wire near the bottom of tray so that it would fit into the tray slot, the extra bolt holes in tray matched up fine. The only thing that didn't work out was on the battery blanket around it, tried opening and taping it but whatever, I removed that. Also the clip on fuse box holder didn't really slide under the positive terminal. So I left that off and bolted it down with the holder tray and it's fine.

If anyone comes across part numbers for h7 that fits I may order it but not needed really.

Updated computer from 70ah battery to 80ah.
Tested car while running to make sure not overcharging and it showed 12.7 with lights off and running (odd) to 13.6 with headlight on. I guess this is some new feature with on/off . I'm used to cars being like 13.5 running with lights on or off

 

Just to add another successful H7 battery install story to this thread.

I have a 2019 Atlas S V6 and just installed a Costco/Interstate H7 AGM battery. When buying it I had to insist I wanted the H7 size, because their fit charts only show the H6.

The battery fits just fine in the existing battery tray; using the last hole for the hold-down bracket. It takes a bit a maneuvering in tighter quarters to get the battery seated in the tray under the hold-down lips, get the hold-down bracket in place and to get the positive battery cable in place, but it all works. I had to replace the battery blanket with an aftermarket one as the H6 blanket is too small.

I used a VeepeakVP11 ODB-II scanner and Car Scanner Pro app to recode the battery parameters. 80ah, Fleece (AGM), for the serial number I used the date and my initials in this format YYYYMMDDXX and INS for the manufacturer code.

I did not use a memory saver. After installing the new battery and recoding I started the car and drove around the block. There were a bunch of dashboard warning lights. I stopped and turned off the car and restarted it and drove another lap around the block and all the warning lights disappeared. I used the scanner and saw there were a number of error codes. I cleared them all, drove some more and rechecked; the codes did not reappear, with one exception. The radio has a code that keeps reappearing in the scanner, but the radio and all functions appear to be working correctly.

This is a good video on how to replace the battery in an Atlas.