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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those wanting to add the spare tire subwoofer as we did. Here you go. Tap into the left rear door speaker! Here is the wiring diagram/list馃槈, any questions please feel free to ask and or send a message I will be more then happy to walk you through and send pics etc. even FaceTime

It hits pretty **** good and it鈥檚 quick enough to pick you the punch bass from rock. And deep enough to handle the gangsta rap 馃ぃ. It blows the fender sub out of the water by 馃挴. It鈥檚 the Cerwin-Vega spare tire sub $300 on amazon with a $17, 8 gauge wiring kit. And it鈥檚 a prime item 馃ぃ. The sub it self complements the stock system perfect it pack enough punch but doesn鈥檛 over due it. This weekend鈥檚 task adding 2 coaxial speakers to the 3rd row as the fender system has. Stay tuned!
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i just purchased this exact sub and a similar wiring kit based on your post and will be installing it sometime this weekend. I just have a couple questions, did you only tap into the one rear speaker? And what various trim pieces must be removed to gain access to the speaker wires you tapped into? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I tapped into the left rear door speaker. You have to run the power through the firewall. I removed the floor trim and the B Pillar on driver side to get the the Rear door Speaker. Send me a dm I鈥檒l send you the wiring diagram.
 

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Yes I tapped into the left rear door speaker. You have to run the power through the firewall. I removed the floor trim and the B Pillar on driver side to get the the Rear door Speaker. Send me a dm I鈥檒l send you the wiring diagram.
Hello, how did you run the power from battery through the firewall? Im not seeing any grommets or anything that will allow a pass through. Did you have to drill a new hole?? Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello, how did you run the power from battery through the firewall? Im not seeing any grommets or anything that will allow a pass through. Did you have to drill a new hole?? Thank you!
Take the batter out and you鈥檒l see the hole.
 

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Just bought this sub in the shallow depth model (noticed there were 2 different ones) just in case clearance was an option. Exact same specs just 2 inches shorter. Will be installing it next week. The SEL R Line only has the 6 speaker setup and it needs help with the low end. I find it crazy how VW packages their features. You have to buy the highest trim level to get some pretty basic stuff. Wish they would mix and match with their trim setups like other brands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just bought this sub in the shallow depth model (noticed there were 2 different ones) just in case clearance was an option. Exact same specs just 2 inches shorter. Will be installing it next week. The SEL R Line only has the 6 speaker setup and it needs help with the low end. I find it crazy how VW packages their features. You have to buy the highest trim level to get some pretty basic stuff. Wish they would mix and match with their trim setups like other brands.

Understand completely with it. But that subs blows the fender out of the water by far. You be far happier with the cv then the fender
 

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Understand completely with it. But that subs blows the fender out of the water by far. You be far happier with the cv then the fender
You taped into the B pillar for speaker leads correct? Did you only do the left rear or both left and right from the other side? Not looking to pull the cd in the glove box and run cables from that area if it's easier to just tap in from the back doors. I'll run power like you did from the battery...oh and where did you mount the wired remote?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Correct. The remote is internal with the speakers. It uses the hi lo and lo pass filter. You can tap into the same stereo wire for a remote. Just be carful their is a airbag wire that almost looks identical
 

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Alright...did the install today. Power to the battery was straight forward. Hole in the firewall was to the left of the brake pedal just above the footwell cover you need to remove. Wire comes out just to the right below the battery if you're looking at it standing in front looking toward the vehicle with the hood open. I ran my 8 gauge wire along the floor sill and didn't need to remove any into the trunk. I pulled the head unit from the glove box and tapped in to the speaker wires there while running the remote into the glove box as well. Speaker wire from the head unit and remote wire tucked along the right side floor sill to the back. No need to remove these either. Once everything made it in to the trunk I ran it thru loom and zip tied everything neatly. On an Atlas Cross Sport you must buy a coupler to use the rod they supplied to tie the sub inside the spare tire well. The stock bolt is not long enough and is not removable. They sell them at Home Depot. Altogether if you take your time this should only take a couple hours.

The good: Adds more low end to the 6 speaker stock stereo. Especially with songs that have a little more boom to them. I dialed down the bass to the stock speakers and slowly faded in the sub adjusting it to balance everything out. I would say it hits "a little" harder then the Fender sub when I test drove an SEL Premium. Albeit neither the Fender or the 6 speaker sound system is going to blow you away. In low to medium listening levels it sounds more balanced and the bass doesn't roll off like without. My car is a lease so I didn't want to throw much at this and for around $400 with all materials I would say it's worth it and if you can do the install yourself it's not a worthless "upgrade"

The bad: well being the sub is under the floor of your trunk stuff will rattle and depending on the frequency being put out it will sound like the speakers are distorting. I'll play around with dampening and stuffing some towels under the deck to see if I can isolate some of this. I found this to be true when I test drove the Fender sound system as well. There is only so much you're going to get out of a spare tire subwoofer. It will be a trade off for overall sound output and saving trunk space.

Hope this helps anyone on the fence about doing this install. In my opinion if you really wanted a major upgrade I would replace the stock speakers and add an amp. I would also add a real sub woofer enclosure to increase the output and volume level.
 

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Alright...did the install today. Power to the battery was straight forward. Hole in the firewall was to the left of the brake pedal just above the footwell cover you need to remove. Wire comes out just to the right below the battery if you're looking at it standing in front looking toward the vehicle with the hood open. I ran my 8 gauge wire along the floor sill and didn't need to remove any into the trunk. I pulled the head unit from the glove box and tapped in to the speaker wires there while running the remote into the glove box as well. Speaker wire from the head unit and remote wire tucked along the right side floor sill to the back. No need to remove these either. Once everything made it in to the trunk I ran it thru loom and zip tied everything neatly. On an Atlas Cross Sport you must buy a coupler to use the rod they supplied to tie the sub inside the spare tire well. The stock bolt is not long enough and is not removable. They sell them at Home Depot. Altogether if you take your time this should only take a couple hours.

The good: Adds more low end to the 6 speaker stock stereo. Especially with songs that have a little more boom to them. I dialed down the bass to the stock speakers and slowly faded in the sub adjusting it to balance everything out. I would say it hits "a little" harder then the Fender sub when I test drove an SEL Premium. Albeit neither the Fender or the 6 speaker sound system is going to blow you away. In low to medium listening levels it sounds more balanced and the bass doesn't roll off like without. My car is a lease so I didn't want to throw much at this and for around $400 with all materials I would say it's worth it and if you can do the install yourself it's not a worthless "upgrade"

The bad: well being the sub is under the floor of your trunk stuff will rattle and depending on the frequency being put out it will sound like the speakers are distorting. I'll play around with dampening and stuffing some towels under the deck to see if I can isolate some of this. I found this to be true when I test drove the Fender sound system as well. There is only so much you're going to get out of a spare tire subwoofer. It will be a trade off for overall sound output and saving trunk space.

Hope this helps anyone on the fence about doing this install. In my opinion if you really wanted a major upgrade I would replace the stock speakers and add an amp. I would also add a real sub woofer enclosure to increase the output and volume level.
I am about to try this install myself and was wondering if you had any trouble pulling the stereo head unit? Also, how did you splice into the speaker wires?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You don鈥檛 need to order those. You can tape into the 2nd row speakers. That harness is in the D pillar between both doors. It鈥檚 pretty easy.
 

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You don鈥檛 need to order those. You can tape into the 2nd row speakers. That harness is in the D pillar between both doors. It鈥檚 pretty easy.
Yes you can but if you want to get to both left and right speaker wires in one place behind the radio is easiest in my opinion.
 

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It doesn鈥檛 require that for install. 馃し鈥嶁檪锔 You do you
So I take it that the head unit does not have RCA connections. Does this mean that instead of 鈥淟ow Level Input鈥 connection, one must connect via 鈥滺igh Level Inputs鈥? If there is no benefit to connect through the head unit, and you opt to connect to rear speakers through B Pillar, do you connect left input to left speaker, and then right to right speaker on opposite side?
I鈥檓 sure I sound like a big noob, but want to attack this install in most efficient and effective way. Confused by 鈥渘ot required for install鈥. Connecting to both left and right is not required? Thanks for help!
 

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Behind the head unit in the glovebox is the speaker harness that has the wires for all the speaker leads. I choose to splice in here as I could get to the right and left speakers for the rear doors in one place while running all the wires along one side of the car.

You will be using the high level inputs which also act as remote on for the subwoofer. No need to use the blue switching wire. I prefer to use both left and right inputs but I suppose you can just connect up one side. The other gentlemen said he chose to tap into the B pillars to get to the same speaker wires for the rear speakers. Completely up to you.
 

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Behind the head unit in the glovebox is the speaker harness that has the wires for all the speaker leads. I choose to splice in here as I could get to the right and left speakers for the rear doors in one place while running all the wires along one side of the car.

You will be using the high level inputs which also act as remote on for the subwoofer. No need to use the blue switching wire. I prefer to use both left and right inputs but I suppose you can just connect up one side. The other gentlemen said he chose to tap into the B pillars to get to the same speaker wires for the rear speakers. Completely up to you.
Thanks for clarifying. This extra context around the two methods discussed in this thread helps a lot. Thank You!
 

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Thanks for clarifying. This extra context around the two methods discussed in this thread helps a lot. Thank You!
I would like to try and run power and speaker like you have done ( power driver side through firewall and speaker wire passenger to head unit). Also like the idea of not needing to remove sill and see how one can squeeze it through up until I get to the third row. Any tips once I get back there? Thanks again!
 
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