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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there,

I installed the P3 to the preinstalled tow package, I hardwired the connection due to a lack of those fancy adapter pieces but am getting no power to the unit, the cables weren’t hot when I wired them. Is there a on-screen setting to activate towing or do you have to add a fuse? I have been looking at fuse diagrams but can’t seem to find the appropriate slot. Has anyone experienced this? I’m out of ideas...

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I have just removed every 20amp fuse and above but non of them are blown. Maybe they forgot to install the appropriate fuse during factory install of the tow package? Does anyone know the location of that particular fuse bay? Thanks!
 

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There may be some coding that you have to do to enable it...may require a trip to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I figured it out! And this might help someone out there. Since there was no power going to the unit I figured it would be a fuse issue rather than programming but could not track it down on fuse maps for the Atlas fuse boards, only to realize the reason why I couldn’t find it in them is that the fuse isn’t in either of those boxes. There is a 30amp fuse behind the dashboard fuse box on the underside, it’s only visible with the under panel removed and you fully lying on the floor looking up.

I spoke to VW and they didn’t have any clue about the location of the brake controller fuse. I hope this helps!

Now it’s time to pick up a camper! ??
 

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I figured it out! And this might help someone out there. Since there was no power going to the unit I figured it would be a fuse issue rather than programming but could not track it down on fuse maps for the Atlas fuse boards, only to realize the reason why I couldn’t find it in them is that the fuse isn’t in either of those boxes. There is a 30amp fuse behind the dashboard fuse box on the underside, it’s only visible with the under panel removed and you fully lying on the floor looking up.

I spoke to VW and they didn’t have any clue about the location of the brake controller fuse. I hope this helps!

Now it’s time to pick up a camper! ??
I am having the same problem with the CURT Echo Bluetooth controller. Is the 30 amp fuse there or just a vacant slot?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There was already a fuse in place in a two fuse setup with one slot being vacant in the underneath as described in my previous post. I’m not familiar with the Bluetooth controller but if you have checked the fuses in the fuse boxes and non of them have been “burned out” I’d give those straggler fuses a shot.
 

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There was already a fuse in place in a two fuse setup with one slot being vacant in the underneath as described in my previous post. I’m not familiar with the Bluetooth controller but if you have checked the fuses in the fuse boxes and non of them have been “burned out” I’d give those straggler fuses a shot.
Did you just add a second 30 amp to the vacant slot?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No, the existing 30amp fuse had been fried from when I hardwired the P3 break controller.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great, let me know when you figure out what the culprit was! Just curious, and again, it might help someone combing through the forum.
 

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I figured it out! And this might help someone out there. Since there was no power going to the unit I figured it would be a fuse issue rather than programming but could not track it down on fuse maps for the Atlas fuse boards, only to realize the reason why I couldn’t find it in them is that the fuse isn’t in either of those boxes. There is a 30amp fuse behind the dashboard fuse box on the underside, it’s only visible with the under panel removed and you fully lying on the floor looking up.

I spoke to VW and they didn’t have any clue about the location of the brake controller fuse. I hope this helps!

Now it’s time to pick up a camper! ??
Thanks for sharing this. Same issue here and I would never have found that fuse without this thread. Thanks!
 

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I am having the same problem with the CURT Echo Bluetooth controller. Is the 30 amp fuse there or just a vacant slot?
What was/is your the solution? Blown/missing fuse? Had read posting that once trailer is hooked up then controller is active.
From eTrailer
"In certain cases, some vehicles like your 2019 Volkswagen Atlas do not send a full 12 volts to the trailer connector which then creates an issue for the Curt Echo Mobile Trailer Brake Controller part # C51180. We have not yet had a chance to test this yet therefore, if you want to be sure it will work before you order you can probe the 12 volt power pin in the 1 o'clock position on the 7-way trailer connector to make sure there is a full 12 volts of power, if there is you will be good to go. However, if you don't have a full 12 volts of power then you can use the Trailer Connector Adapter part # 20142 which will increase the load on the 12 volt power pin inside the 7-way to then make the Curt Echo compatible. If you like, you can order both of the above that way you would surely be covered no matter how the trailer connector test."
 

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Check the fuse under the panel first. That sneaky hidden fuse was the problem for me. I replaced it and noticed the same issue as before at the plug. But, once I connected the trailer it completed the circuit and worked just fine.
 

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Also, the brake controller does not have power unless a trailer is plugged into the towing plug in the back.
 

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Just to clarify, you had a blown fuse, was replaced, and once the trailer was connected, unit has power and able to be connected/paired via bluetooth.
I believe etrailer is saying that with the their adapter, power/pairing can be done without a trailer being hooked up(assuming fuse is good).

I'll post back when I plug in the adapter(ordered today) & controller together.
 

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One difference here is that I used a hard wired controller rather that the BT controller. For me, I notice the controller does not have power without a trailer connected. This may be a different issue than your BT connectivity.
 

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Also, the brake controller does not have power unless a trailer is plugged into the towing plug in the back.
I can confirm this. I verified that the fuse under the dash was not blown and took it into VW and they informed me the 7-Pin Unit was defective (which I now doubt) and they replaced it. I plugged the Curt Bluetooth Brake controller in and had the same original results, no power. I read this posting, went out, and plugged the Curt into the 7-Pin and then my trailer into the Curt, and presto!!! It works as it should. Cheers!
 

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Good news AK! Glad it worked. Sorry the dealer hosed you. My experience at the dealer was less than impressive as well. I understand somewhat though since these are newer models, most people are not towing with them, and even fewer will need a brake controller.
 

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Good news AK! Glad it worked. Sorry the dealer hosed you. My experience at the dealer was less than impressive as well. I understand somewhat though since these are newer models, most people are not towing with them, and even fewer will need a brake controller.
Not too impressed with our dealership as well. I don't feel like I got hosed since the vehicle is under warranty, I just think they may have scammed VW in a warranty claim to make money for the dealership. I had found this forum prior to taking it in but the post suggesting to plug the trailer in hadn't been posted yet. Hopefully, it will save someone some frustration. We are pulling an R-Pod so it's not too heavy, but if any trailer has brakes you might as well use them and save wear and tear on your vehicle. Thanks for your contributions.
 

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I can confirm this. I verified that the fuse under the dash was not blown and took it into VW and they informed me the 7-Pin Unit was defective (which I now doubt) and they replaced it. I plugged the Curt Bluetooth Brake controller in and had the same original results, no power. I read this posting, went out, and plugged the Curt into the 7-Pin and then my trailer into the Curt, and presto!!! It works as it should. Cheers!
Yes, that was one of the suggested solution but since my TT pickup is not until mid week I could not test and pair the controller to the iPhone. Thanks for confirming.
Another one is to install Reese 20142 7-Way to 7-Flat Adapter with LED Lamp-Out Bypass for European Vehicles before the controller to force load on the 12v pin(from eTrailer).
And lastly I think getting a CURT 58270 Vehicle Socket Tester RV Blade 7-Way Towing Wiring Tester 7-Pin Trailer Wiring will also confirm active connection/power.

I've ordered both Reese & Curt parts above so I can confirm if they work when I get them.
 
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