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I went with Michelin CrossClimate 2 in 255/55-20. They are 31" tall and I felt the car needed a little more cushion. I have the B2B "plus" spacer set which has 20/25mm spacers. If it looks ridiculous, I'll trade them for the "flush" fit. I shouldn't see any rubbing as I kept the factory tire width and have an additional 20mm for lateral clearance exclusive of the lift. I have the blocks as well should I need them.

Wheels are back from powder coating and I'm waiting for Tirerack to ship the tires.
The exhaust sounds nice. It's mild but nice.
I used ODBEleven to code out the auto stop/start and a ton of other useful things.
Just did a Haldex service a little early @ 29k miles, along with oil, air, cabin filter, brake fluid.
PDR guy coming at the end to clean up a few tiny dings.

I leased this 3 years ago as a spare car. The buy out was of course low compared to the MMR trade value so I bought it. May as well put a little into it to make it an interesting car.
 

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Hi I am going through lifting my 2018 Atlas. The set up is 17x8 fifteen52 Traverse +35 w/10mm wheel spacers to get an offset of +24, 265/70/17 Falken Wildpeaks and BFI 1.5” lift kit. First question anyone with this set up have any tire rubbing issues? Second after the Atlas was lifted did you have to recalibrate the ACC (Adaptive Cruise Control) sensors? I have a SE w/Technology, I just want to prepare if I need to do the recalibration. Thank you!
Hi, I’m new to this but really interested in lifting my 2019 SE w tech and tow. I haven’t seen anyone comment on this yet- and I’ll call my tire and auto shops to confirm- but my car came stock with 255R20 tires/wheels. Most forums I found all have purchased new 17 or 18 inch with their lift kits (fifteen52 wheels seem to be the preferred). Do I need to downgrade to 18 inch if I lift my atlas with just some of the stock springs or spacers? Between 1-3” total. just curious why everyone else has 17s or 18s versus the 20 I assumed was stock.
 

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Hi, I’m new to this but really interested in lifting my 2019 SE w tech and tow. I haven’t seen anyone comment on this yet- and I’ll call my tire and auto shops to confirm- but my car came stock with 255R20 tires/wheels. Most forums I found all have purchased new 17 or 18 inch with their lift kits (fifteen52 wheels seem to be the preferred). Do I need to downgrade to 18 inch if I lift my atlas with just some of the stock springs or spacers? Between 1-3” total. just curious why everyone else has 17s or 18s versus the 20 I assumed was stock.
Hello @matthewkarnes - the total lift (leveling kits, coil springs or full suspension swap) is about 3”. Most shops won’t recommend stacking lifting items and suggest sticking to one method. Also the higher you go without replacing the smaller components of the suspension system will need to get replaced later on. Most have done the leveling pucks and coils which gets you to 2.5” lift. The biggest tire you can put on is about 31.6” in diameter with a lift. Everyone has gone to 17” (myself) or 18” wheels because if you go off pavement the more rubber and air you have helps with the rougher roads. You can keep the 20” OEM wheels and get all season or all terrain tires, you just won’t have as much sidewall. The 20” wheels and 255/45R20 tires is about 29.6” in diameter. FYI-255 references the width of the tire, /45 is the height as a % of the width and the R20 is wheel size. If you do go down to smaller wheels, stick with the 255 width as this will help eliminate wheel rub when you turn full lock. Safe to say a 255/55R20 is 31” in diameter so you would also get a little height there. You don’t have to lift it to put nobbier tires on, just check with the tire shop what is the max size you can go with. All things have gotten drastically more expensive. Good luck and post a pic when you get it all done.
 

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I had a 2018 SE+Tech on the Forge leveling kit (1”) and h&r spring coil overs (1.5”) and went with new wheel and tire set up. Many other upgrades but the improvement to driving on and off pavement was amazing. The squish of the OEM suspension was gone. Unfortunately it got totaled in an accident and I am starting over with a 2019 SEL. I just did the fender blocks and took my old wheels off, swapped tires and Flatout Suspension kit goes on this coming Tuesday. Tires are Goodyear Duratracs 265/65R17. Here are pics of the old one (the dark grey) and the new Silver one.
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Car Vehicle



Tire Wheel Sky Land vehicle Vehicle
 

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Hey there. Two questions for you on this.
  • I’ve read a lot that sticking with 255 or 245s shouldn’t have rub. Was yours because you got larger tires at 245/75/17? so if I stick with 245/50/17 or whatever is closer to that then the rubbing would not occur?
  • I’m looking at the b2b as well + wheel blocks. Are the spacers necessary? Do they help eliminate run some or is it just to help the tire pop out slightly from the well?
 

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Hey there. Two questions for you on this.
  • I’ve read a lot that sticking with 255 or 245s shouldn’t have rub. Was yours because you got larger tires at 245/75/17? so if I stick with 245/50/17 or whatever is closer to that then the rubbing would not occur?
  • I’m looking at the b2b as well + wheel blocks. Are the spacers necessary? Do they help eliminate run some or is it just to help the tire pop out slightly from the well?
@matthewkarnes I have 265/65R17’s (10.4” wide and 30.6” in diameter) on now, put the blocks on, and have no rub. The wheels I got have a 12mm offset and I don’t need spacers. This allows the tires to sit about .5” outside the fender line. I like the look.
  • If you go with a tire that is 10” or smaller in width (255 and under) as well as an overall diameter of 30” or less you should be good to go with no rub.
  • The blocks are fairly inexpensive and easy to install. I would recommend them as you would be able to go with a wider tire (265 or 10.4”) and 31” or smaller in diameter. Spacers are not needed unless you want to bump the wheels out and make your wheel base wider. It also depends on your wheels offset.
 

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What is involved with the B2B Fab block install? There's no video or instruction sheet on their site or on the web.
@Jaybird -Rline - instructions with pictures come with them. It is pretty straight forward. Jack it up as if changing the tire, remove fender trim screws, pull fender away, unscrew the massive blocks and pull off. Remount the new smaller blocks. Measure on the outside liner wall where the screw will go, slightly drill a lead hole and then screw the fender liner down. It sucks it toward the body to give the wheel well more space for larger tires to not rub when turning full lock. Realign the fender liner and attach with the trim screws. Total time is about 15-30 mins each side and your skills/tools. Nothing special is needed.
 

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@Jaybird -Rline - instructions with pictures come with them. It is pretty straight forward. Jack it up as if changing the tire, remove fender trim screws, pull fender away, unscrew the massive blocks and pull off. Remount the new smaller blocks. Measure on the outside liner wall where the screw will go, slightly drill a lead hole and then screw the fender liner down. It sucks it toward the body to give the wheel well more space for larger tires to not rub when turning full lock. Realign the fender liner and attach with the trim screws. Total time is about 15-30 mins each side and your skills/tools. Nothing special is needed.
Thank for the reply. I'm currently stock 255/50/20 and was looking at an AT tire over the all season. 265/50/20. Tire specs on tire site, width goes from 10.4 to 10.9 and concerned about rubbing. Tire Size calculator says it goes from 10 to 10.4. I have seen some posts going from 255/50/20 to 254/50/20 where there is no rubbing.
 

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Thank for the reply. I'm currently stock 255/50/20 and was looking at an AT tire over the all season. 265/50/20. Tire specs on tire site, width goes from 10.4 to 10.9 and concerned about rubbing. Tire Size calculator says it goes from 10 to 10.4. I have seen some posts going from 255/50/20 to 254/50/20 where there is no rubbing.
@Jaybird -Rline - it might be the A/T version vs. the A/S version. I have 265 width tires and no rub. The tire shop should help you measure and make the right call.
 

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Hello all. I wanted to update you on my Flatout Suspension. I was toting it here and in another forum which I will make the same post. DO NOT go this route for your suspension kit. I ordered in Sept and installed end of Nov at a quality, suspension specialist shop. The struts have a rattle. I had another VW shop check and they said they are installed correctly. After reaching out to Flatout Suspension, he is blaming the shop and is asking me to have them shave the Shoulder washer 1mm to get rid of the rattle. He also assembled the fronts with the wrong shim which he had to ship a new one. That cost me an extra $900 in labor costs at the shop. He has not done anything to correct the issue except blame the shop and the distance away I am because if closer he could fix it. He is in MD and I’m in WA. DO NOT order from Flatout Suspension. I will be removing and going a different route and most likely taking a $3k loss :(
 

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Hey guys, I would appreciate your input as I am pretty much a novice.

I have an Atlas 2022 with 20"alloys. I am not a big backcountry camper but just want to lift the car for the looks of it.

Has anyone lifted their Atlas while using 20" alloys or is it a no-go?

Thanks,
JD
 
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