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First DIY oil change on the Atlas complete at 30,460 miles for a 5,183 change interval/7 mos. For sure mine takes 6qts and that's the top of the dip stick - some folks are reporting that 6 is bottom of dip stick and it takes another qt so 7. Not sure there, maybe the sump got bigger at some point?

Easy job, I didn't have the 36mm oil filter housing socket so ordered from shopdap for next time. Just used a crescent to get it off but it's not ideal to do it that way.
So 5 qts of Liquimoly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40, 0.75 qts of Castrol Edge 5W40 and 0.25 gts of Wallyworld Supertech 5W30 High Mileage...needed to get rid of some partial bottles. Also did Liquimoly Ceratec this go around and used their Proline Engine Flush before the change. Sample collected for used oil analysis for Blackstone as usual. No oil consumption to mention over the interval.

Also changed the f/r wipers (VW), cabin air filter (Corteco), topped off the wiper fluid and coolant, set the tires to 35/reset the TPMS, and reset the oil change/maintenance interval.
Didn't bother rotating the tires, I'm planning on getting new ones mid-year/35K. I'll do the brake fluid flush and Haldex awd service in a few weeks which completes the 30K/3year service. Bonus that crawling under your vehicle a few times a year really helps identify issues early - definately no leaks/issues with mine.
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Nice write up KarstGeo. Looking forward to your report on the Haldex service. The 6 quart fill aligns with what I get as well. Thanks for the feed back.
 

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Nice write up KarstGeo. Looking forward to your report on the Haldex service. The 6 quart fill aligns with what I get as well. Thanks for the feed back.
Just replied to your post over on vortex - the Haldex is easy and I've done it on my Sportwagen, same procedure/hardware. I used this:

(3) How to Perform an AWD MK7 Haldex Service - YouTube

The drain/fill is easy and I bought the kit from shopdap that had the big syringe/fill tool to make this easier. A lot of folks goof the drain/fill bolts as there are others back there for the r. diff. I also removed the pump so I could clean the little screen out with brake kleen; I didn't remove it from the vehicle to do this b/c I didn't want to unplug it. The hardest part is getting the vehicle level. You also are supposed to use a scan tool to set the level at a certain temp so I use OBDEleven.
 

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Great post, getting ready to do the 3rd oil change - First one was a blood bath of oil dropping everywhere and the second wasn't to bad. I hate that filter location
 

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Used oil analysis nerd time. Here's my most recent. The 3.6 FSI is a fuel diluter and I am mostly short trips. Solidifies for me doing 5-6K changes which is only 1-2 a year for me. Switched this time to Liquimoly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40 with Ceratec so will see if it fairs any better. Wear metals look good and are likely leveled out now, may see iron drop a little more. No idication that the K&N isn't doing a good job filtering. No issue with total base number (TBN) and going to 10K would be my projection based on my data (want TBN no less than 1) but the viscosity drop/fuel is going to be the driver for me. Enjoy.
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Thanks KarstGeo for the updated oil analysis. Any thoughts about the magnesium and molybdenum increases over your previous reports and what if anything these 2 matter? I'm still new at trying to understand all line items and their impact, having not ever had a UOA in all my past vehicles.
 

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I thought the oil smelled like fuel more than any other vehicle I have ever changed it on. I was planning on 5k oil changes anyway, but after I got a whiff of that it cemented it for me.
 

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Thanks KarstGeo for the updated oil analysis. Any thoughts about the magnesium and molybdenum increases over your previous reports and what if anything these 2 matter? I'm still new at trying to understand all line items and their impact, having not ever had a UOA in all my past vehicles.
The additive package on this latest oil the dealer used clearly points to a different oil than previous. Ca/P/Mg/Zn are all part of the anti-wear/additive pack. VW switched from Castrol to Mobil as their oil supplier and that is the likely results as well as the increase in moly/boron. Wear metals are good. This UOA shows a healthy engine and oil that had more life.
 

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Good info KarstGeo. Interesting how oil with the same viscosity and VW specs, but different manufacturer, can reflect some different properties due to their own formulas. VW was such a long time Castrol partner, I'm surprised they changed. My oil filler cap even says Castrol on it.
 
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