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Hello! This is not your typical battery post! (I know, I searched!) I know you have to code them (although I didn't and it is fine so far).

Really, I have a question about battery size. I have an SEL Premium and had the battery fail after 75k miles on the car (not bad!) I went down to Walmart and bought a suitable replacement (H6 AGM) even though their system first recommended an H5 - it seemed too small. Turns out we were right - the existing one was, in fact, an H6.

Well, when I went in to change it, I noticed that the battery tray has an additional bracket location (bolt hole) that would accommodate a longer battery than the H6 - had I know this, I would have probably spent the extra $0 and gotten an H7 (assuming it is that and not an H8). The extra 4 lbs. wouldn't bother me too much, either.

Has anyone put an H7 (or H8?) into the car? Does it fit OK otherwise? Any other insight? Is it possible to overstress the alternator? Thought it wouldn't hurt to throw up a thread as others might find this info helpful.

Thanks!
 

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That is an interesting question and my SEL-P has the same extra bolt hole. The difference in size between H6 and H7 is 1- 7/16 inch in length (same height and width) and that is the distance to the extra hole. So, it looks like the H7 would fit, but curious why the battery finder apps don't acknowledge that.

The H7 has about 10 percent more capacity in CCA and reserve minutes. Not huge, but with batteries and a few other things, bigger is always better. The alternator won't care - there could be a room full of batteries and it will just pump out its rated current all day long.

Different sized batteries shouldn't present any different load for the alternator - i.e. the alternator will just recharge what was dissipated in starting regardless of battery size. Unless you spend a lot of time with the accessories on and engine off, should be no difference. The bigger battery simply offers a slightly longer reserve time.

Next battery replacement, I will probably give the H7 a try
 

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The battery info needs to be recoded into the car with a OBD11, VCDS OR VD700 OBD2. And code it yourself, save $200 bucks the dealer will charge you. Not to mention when dash light, check engine light pops up u can tell the dealer or repair shop what is wrong and avoid a diagnostic charge of $125+.
 

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I had the battery replaced in our Atlas at the dealer; this was an H6 AGM and was about $350. The same battery at Costco is $150 and I have OBDEleven and can reset the battery adaptation myself. Next time. This isn't something crazy to do but many auto parts stores won't change it b/c of the coding issue.
 
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