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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My Atlas Cross sport SEL has the crappy audio that cuts out at 60% and they are telling me it is normal. My SE tech sounded much better than this. And louder. I went to a few local audio installers that told my there isn't much available for the cross sport. Have any of you had any luck. I've been searching with no results. Any Ideas?

Anyone install the frender system after purchase (is it possible)?

Edit: It is possible to fix.
The problem is called Bass roll-off. VW has installed very cheap speakers and uses software bass-roll off to keep them from blowing. I went to an online store that was really helpful.. and they explained it all to me.

Fix = Connect an LC7i unit to take speaker audio to an aftermarket amp, then aftermarket speakers and Subwoofer. Around 2k to get acceptable sound out of my VW sound system.

Cost cutting at it's finest.
 

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Went to more than one local audio shops?
look I don’t know if it was the shop you went to or what, but this is exactly what I used to do. High end audio in cars. Sometimes aftermarket radio head unit source, sometimes (mostly newer and nicer cars) using oem source units.
Integrating in to the oem radio that has bass roll off requires re-processing the audio for an aftermarket amp. A combination of aftermarket processor, aftermarket amp, and full load of speakers. It’s a whole process that usually comes with a fairly large price tag but **** some of the systems I’ve installed/sold/hand my hands in, shew boy you won’t ever want to consider the “fender system” type of audio upgrade ever again.

to answer your other question though, can you install the oem fender system, I say good luck finding all the parts (wiring included) and a dealer willing to figure out how to program the computer to accept the fender amp(s) to properly work. It would likely be just as costly as a full blown aftermarket setup with some good gear.
 

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Just saw your fix edit.
the LC7i, all equipment, and $2k sounds like cheap system to me TBH. It’s doable, but an lc7i isn’t exactly the best device to fix bass roll off. It Will help, but it’s just an OK fix. I’m also picky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just saw your fix edit.
the LC7i, all equipment, and $2k sounds like cheap system to me TBH. It’s doable, but an lc7i isn’t exactly the best device to fix bass roll off. It Will help, but it’s just an OK fix. I’m also picky.
That's what I mean by acceptable. I'm an audiophile but I've spent a lot of money lately and 2k is all I'm going to spend right now. What would be better than the lc7i? I've had 3 people recommend it. I don't know much about car audio so... I'll take any advice I can get. The stock system as it is sounds horrible to me. I have high end audio equipment at home and my wife's Fender system in her Tiguan at least sounds ok in comparison.
 

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Ok if you’re a hifi guy, you likely understand the importance of starting with a proper DAC along with the rest of the equipment down the line. Most people don’t understand the oem radio’s amplifier in modern cars isn’t just set up with bass roll off, buts it’s also affecting the entire eq spectrum to help with efficiency and speaker health in base models, and in higher end models they actually fiddle a lot with timing offset and even phase offset to bring up staging. I call it the Bose effect (thinking Bose cube systems and how they operate). It’s usually not much but with proper tools you could see everything it’s doing. Getting as close to a flat signal as possible really is best achieved with a proper digital processor. The lc7i isn’t a bad product, don’t get me wrong. It’s just a summing device (for vehicles with truly separate high/low 6ch output) with manual tuning adjustability and “bass correction” which makes an attempt to increase the low range at the same rate as the mid/high range. But ultimately it’s a pre-programmed slope of correction with slight adjustability.
a programmable digital processor may cost a bit more, but during programing you run test signal through the source and it reads the oem EQ and wave pattern throughout the entire volume range and makes the best possible corrections to flatten the curve for a nice flat and linear output. You can then set your own EQ through the processor. Some have a remote screen for on-the-fly adjustment too. JL has a nice processor, ARC Audio makes a good 4 or 6ch amp with a built in processor.

all this being said, I have been out of the industry for a couple years now. A buddy still in the industry, knows A LOT, has told me on a lot of new VAG vehicles he can reprogram the oem computer for the radio to output true flat BALANCED pre-amp outs for direct connection to an amp. No bass correction needed.

Circling back to an LC7i. It’ll work. Probably Well actually. For my personal setups I just always tend to go in full on equipment and am just opinionated towards this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I spent Labor day weekend installing. I started with the lc7i and the epicenter to a jbl amp and 10 inch sub and a JL audio amp driving 4 channel setup in the doors with tweeters in the front doors. It sounds pretty good. Much better than before. I think I found a new hobby. I've started studying like I'm in school again. This is interesting stuff.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Audio equipment Automotive design
 

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Very nice. Glad you went with a good 4ch, very worth the extra cash. Are you powering oem speakers or what did you end up with in the doors? Just make sure your ground points are paint stripped for the best connection possible. I’ve seen too many burnt up amps from what seemed like poor grounding.
the whole mobile audio industry is a rabbit hole if you want it to be. A fun rabbit hole though.
DIYmobileaudio and the12volt are excellent forums to gather info too, although somewhat opinionated at times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Very nice. Glad you went with a good 4ch, very worth the extra cash. Are you powering oem speakers or what did you end up with in the doors? Just make sure your ground points are paint stripped for the best connection possible. I’ve seen too many burnt up amps from what seemed like poor grounding.
the whole mobile audio industry is a rabbit hole if you want it to be. A fun rabbit hole though.
DIYmobileaudio and the12volt are excellent forums to gather info too, although somewhat opinionated at times.
I have aftermarket speakers by JBL and Kicker coming for the doors. I stripped the paint and used stainless hardware to avoid problems with corrosion on the ground. I've joined a few of those. I've been looking for a hobby.... Thanks for taking the time to reply.
 

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I have aftermarket speakers by JBL and Kicker coming for the doors. I stripped the paint and used stainless hardware to avoid problems with corrosion on the ground. I've joined a few of those. I've been looking for a hobby.... Thanks for taking the time to reply.
Please post an update when you’ve got your speakers in. I’m curious how your setup does with aftermarket speakers and with staging and imaging. The one thing I really dislike about the oem setup is just how low the staging is. Even with the factory tweeter next to the door handle it just stages so low it sounds like it’s coming from my knees. I imagine the fender system puts a center dash speaker in and maybe even sail panel tweeters(?) to bring imaging high and centered.
My plans for this car are to do a-pillar tweeters and maybe small mids in the current tweeter location for a 3-way setup. BUT I may keep it simple and just do components in oem locations if aftermarket speakers and amp help enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I will update but I may take a couple weeks, my business is really busy at the moment. The staging is the same as is. Yes the cross sport does have a space for the center channel speaker and I'm planning on using it but am confused as to how I get another channel there with my setup. The staging in my wife's Tiguan with the Fender system is much better but not perfect.
 

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Doing a center when you don’t have an input source for a center can be tricky. One way would be to run a digital processor capable of summing and tuning a 3 channel front stage. They aren’t cheap or simple. I’ve seen people play around with running left AND right high range mids or low range tweets in an oem center location, but building a bracket that runs them at an angle to bounce them off the windshield and around the cabin to give a true left/right effect high up on the dash. That method takes a lot of trial and error but stands the best chance for great imaging. A single center on a processor can help but it’s really not much different than your home theater center channel.
 
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